| No. |
Supplier-Neutral Evaluation Dimension |
Scientific or Standards-Based Basis |
| 1
| Accelerated Stability Condition |
ICH Q1A(R2) defines an accelerated stability condition of 40 ± 2 °C and 75 ± 5% relative humidity for six months. |
Store sealed mascara samples at 40 ± 2 °C / 75 ± 5% RH. Test at 0, 1, 2, 3 and 6 months. |
Temperature, RH, test interval, sample count and final result for each endpoint. |
A major change under heat and humidity indicates limited formula robustness and a higher risk of transfer or smudging. |
| 2 |
Viscosity Retention |
Mascara application depends on a balanced suspension and flow profile. Heat can reduce structure, while evaporation can increase viscosity. |
Measure with a rotational viscometer using a documented spindle, speed, temperature and equilibration time. |
Viscosity in mPa·s at 25 °C; percentage change from the initial value. |
A large decrease may create a wetter film and transfer; a large increase may cause uneven coating, clumps or excessive product deposition. |
| 3 |
Water Activity and Moisture Migration |
Relative humidity can change the water balance of water-containing emulsions and affect drying, film formation and surface tack. |
Measure water activity and mass change before and after controlled humidity exposure. |
Water activity (aw), sample mass change (%) and visible condensation or syneresis. |
Increased moisture availability or condensation can delay drying and make the deposited film more prone to rubbing off. |
| 4 |
Drying Time on a Standard Substrate |
A mascara film that remains wet or tacky for longer is more vulnerable to eyelid contact, blinking and transfer. |
Apply a controlled mass or film thickness to a standardized non-porous substrate and record time to a defined non-tacky endpoint. |
Drying time in seconds, tack rating and percentage change after aging. |
Longer drying time or increased tack after 40 °C / 75% RH exposure is a direct smudging warning. |
| 5 |
Rub and Transfer Resistance |
Smudging is a transfer failure caused by mechanical contact between the mascara film and surrounding skin or a test surface. |
After a fixed drying period, apply standardized pressure and cycles using a synthetic skin or coated test panel. |
Transferred mass in mg, optical density change or a defined visual transfer score. |
Higher transfer after accelerated aging demonstrates loss of film integrity or insufficient water, oil or sweat resistance. |
| 6 |
Water Resistance |
Water can plasticize or partially dissolve water-soluble film components and weaken adhesion to lashes. |
Expose dried films to a controlled water challenge, followed by blotting and standardized rubbing. |
Mass loss (%), transfer score and visual change after water exposure. |
Loss of film or increased transfer suggests vulnerability to tears, humidity and perspiration. |
| 7 |
Oil and Sebum Resistance |
Oils and sebum can soften some wax, polymer and resin systems, reducing adhesion around the eyelid. |
Apply a controlled artificial-sebum challenge to the dried film, followed by contact and rub testing. |
Transfer mass, gloss change, softening time and film-break score. |
Greater transfer after oil exposure indicates a likely “panda-eye” failure mode even when water resistance is acceptable. |
| 8 |
Film-Forming Polymer Stability |
Film-forming polymers provide adhesion, cohesion and resistance to water or rubbing; heat and humidity may alter their balance with solvents, waxes and pigments. |
Compare film appearance, adhesion, flexibility and transfer before and after accelerated storage. |
Cracking, flaking, tack, adhesion and transfer results using a documented rating scale. |
Loss of cohesion or increased tack indicates polymer or plasticizer instability that can cause flaking or smearing. |
| 9 |
Phase Separation and Redispersibility |
Separation can change the local ratio of water, oils, waxes, pigments and polymers delivered to the lash. |
Inspect for creaming, sedimentation, oil bleed or syneresis; evaluate recovery after standardized shaking or mixing. |
Separated-layer height, sediment height, recovery time and visual homogeneity. |
Poor redispersibility may produce a wetter, oilier or more pigment-concentrated portion that transfers unevenly. |
| 10 |
Microbiological and Packaging Compatibility Control |
Mascara is a water-containing eye-area product. Packaging integrity and microbiological quality are essential for product safety and consistent performance. |
Perform preservative-efficacy and microbiological quality testing under the applicable cosmetic requirements, together with package-container compatibility checks. |
Microbial counts, specified microorganism results, preservative challenge outcome, leakage and wiper performance. |
Contamination, leakage or a poor wiper can alter viscosity and dosage, causing wet over-application and increased smudging. |